Author Archive

Liguria Sport Climbing

“Due Cappuccini”, I muttered in pathetic Spanish-talian to the barista at a rest stop on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc tunnel. Wicked jet-lag had previously kept me from any sort of regular sleeping schedule and now that I was in somewhere with some reputed taste for decent coffee- it was ON- double fist...

Canon G9 epic

A fun 10 days of climbing in Red Rock NCA with the CMC crew with nothing to prove it, aside from an exceptionally dark farmers tan. Unfortunately my canon G9 (otherwise better than good) has crapped out and is giving me a repeated lens error. I’m guessing this is due to too much time at...

Back to Red Rocks

By the time you are reading this I’ll be loaded in a large 15 passenger van bound for Vegas! This time I’ll be with a van full of student for the CMC Rock Block Course… As you guessed it, it’s like Ice Block, but on rock and in much hotter temperatures. Rock Block often affords...

Five-Ten Stealth Paint

An obvious solution to a longstanding problem. Generations of crack climbers have fallen victim to shredded shoes as a result of excessive crack climbing. Climbers have developed many mostly inaffective solutions including tape, aqua-seal, seam-grip, shoe-goo, barge cement to no avail- the toe boxes of our favorite shoes always end up shredded… Enter the new...

Southwest Climbing

A lot has happened since my last post here. Sarah and I have since moved out of our apartment in Crested Butte and for the past several weeks have been enjoying some good climbing around the southwest. We began our trip by packing in likely some of the worst winter weather of the 08-09 season...

Quick Update

I am in the midst of an impulsive climbing road trip that should come to an end tomorrow. I’ve been out in Red Rock Canyon and now Moab, UT climbing some long sandstone routes. With not much going on around Crested Butte, climbing seemed like a great option. I’ll get some photos and vid together...

Ski Review: K2 Mt. Baker Superlight

Written in winter 07/08 STATS Skis (make/model): 2007-2008 K2 Mt. Baker Superlight Dimensions: 120/88/108 Weight per pair: 6.6lbs Size Tested: 174 Tester’s Name: Mike Bromberg Tester’s Weight: 155 Bindings: Dynafit TLT Classic Boots: Garmont Megaride Summary A mid-fat ski in a ‘superlight’ weight… Hmm… I think I’m right to be initially skeptical. How could a...

Spring Training

Spring is the season for ski guides training for upcoming AMGA Ski Mountaineering Courses and Exams. I’ve been getting in touch and helping out fellow guides with advice for how to really maximize their instructional experiences while avoiding excessive MARGINAL scores. As temperatures climb here in the Elk Mountains, stability is quite good, even Very...

Great News!

Yesterday morning I got an unexpected phone call from Katie Kelly over at the American Mountain Guides Association informing me that I am the lucky recipient of the 2009 Osprey Scholarship! I’ve got big plans for using this scholarship towards the Advanced Alpine Guide’s Course/Aspirant Exam to be held in Chamonix, France this upcoming summer....