Alpine Climbing
South Rib of Mt Tupper, Rogers Pass, BC

South Rib of Mt Tupper, Rogers Pass, BC

Trip: Mt Tupper, Rogers Pass, BC – South Rib D 5.8, West Ridge PD 5.3-5.6 Date: 7/1/2013 Trip Report: The striking South rib of Mt Tupper rises over 800m from it’s base in the South Rib couloir to it’s intersection with the West ridge near the summit. Since the weather on Canada Day (July 1)...

Climbing Mount MacDonald’s Northwest Ridge Integral

It has been a long time since my last post and a lot of great adventures have happened but let’s focus on the present. I’m now living and working in Revelstoke BC and the Selkirk Mountains. I climbed Mount MacDonald the other day, what a fantastic climb. The quality was right up there with the...

June and July

Crappy photos of great moments. This summer in the Alps, I experimented with carrying only an iphone as a camera. Worked well in “capturing” some moments without being a slave to the camera. Created with flickr slideshow.

Many ways to skin a cat: multi-pitch rappelling

While going through the process of becoming a Mountain Guide through the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), I was thrice instructed and evaluated by a colleague who was very fond of using the phrase “there’s more than one way to skin a cat” during course debriefs and performance evaluations.  While this idiom generally conjured up...

A summer in huts: France

As the summer winds down, and I begin to transition into the fall rock climbing season and further on to winter, it’s nice to reflect back upon all the summer’s challenges. Three countries, a handful of different ranges and sub-ranges, and dozens of objectives would nauseate even the most enthusiastic reader, so I though it...
July Mont Blanc Alternatives

July Mont Blanc Alternatives

It’s no secret that the winter of 2011 in the Alps was a dry one. Perhaps the worst in decades – if you’re a skier. Bare ice, marginal snow conditions and horrifically long spells of cold, dry weather. It’s also no secret that historically, dry winters are followed by wet summers. This July, I’ve had...
French Alps Reconnaissance

French Alps Reconnaissance

On the way home from a great guiding trip to Norway, I decided to swing through my recent summer home, Chamonix, France. Typically my trips to Cham are filled with work and I often find myself eager to investigate the lifetimes’ worth of objectives. A dedicated vacances and reconnaissance trip this spring allowed me to...
Chamonix Guide Training Videos

Chamonix Guide Training Videos

As far as guide training goes; the more complicated the better! On my days off this summer, I’ve been taking full advantage of the learning opportunities that the Mont Blanc range presents. Our first specimen is a clip put together by Ross Berg of he and I on the Traverse d’Entreves on the Franco-Italian border....
Black Diamond Venom  Grivel Slider Mod

Black Diamond Venom Grivel Slider Mod

I’ve experimented with a pinky rest on the Black Diamond Venom once before; in the form of a Petzl Trigrest (from the Petzl Sum’tec) with only marginal results. Today, I finally experimented with the most logical solution- using the stock hardware and an older model Grivel Slider. The results seem to be quite solid. *The...