Alpine Climbing

The suspense is killing me!

The AMGA’s new “two week” rule is more stressful than the exam itself… The new rule is designed to give both the candidates and examiners some time to appropriately process feedback and reflect on the learning experience. In past courses and exams, candidates were immediately informed of their final score- resulting in either gleeful satisfaction...

Climbing Mont Blanc via the Trois Monts route

August 18, 2009

3 Days of Cham Climbing

The weather has since taken a turn for the worse, but last week was stellar. My friend Kevin Landolt, a former CMC student of mine turned super motivated and fast partner had some excellent days out climbing beautiful Chamonix granite. The video below features some super fantastic moderate classics including the Midi-Plan traverse, the Pilier...

Dolomites and Arco Climbing

A few weeks ago, Sarah and I were suffering from a little of the “grass is always greener” syndrome and opted for some adventuring away from the alpine paradise of our current backyard. Being that it is the Alps: many countries and their spectacular mountain playgrounds are accessible by only a few hours drive. We...

Alpine Exploits

Having the perfect blend of work and play in the mountains is something that (I think) every guide struggles with. The lure of more work as well as the necessity of more play, or perhaps vice-versa; is a very delicate balance. Having been careful to not over do it on each end, I’ve had some...

Mont Blanc above the clouds.

I just got down from a great Mont Blanc summit trip and despite a relatively unfavorable weather forecast, once our team reached 3200m we were above the clouds and basking in the sunlight. A truly great ascent! High above the clouds and the Aiguille du Midi Anyone that dismisses a Mont Blanc ascent as simply...

Alpine Rock without the Hassle!

The past few days I’ve climbed some excellent alpine rock routes in the Aiguilles Rouge with nothing more than a 50m rope and a rack of quickdraws! This morning we didn’t start the “approach” (riding the Brevent cable car) until after 11am and still managed to climb 10 pitches of spectacular alpine rock. My partner...

Piolet Fomo: mountain axe comparo

Having piolet FOMO (fear of missing out)? Tired of using your old-too long-battle-axe of a piolet? These days there are many great options for the semi-technical do it all piolet that it is hard not to lust after the newest axe on the market. Over the past few weeks I’ve had a chance to use...

IFMGA Aspirant Guide

Yesterday marked the end of the seemingly endless 12 days of the American Mountain Guides Association’s Advanced Alpine Guides Course and Aspirant Exam. After the kilometers of shortroping, shortpitching, and everything in between- I am now certified as an IFMGA Aspirant Guide. Those of you who are familiar with this process will note that this...