Trip: Mt Tupper, Rogers Pass, BC – South Rib D 5.8, West Ridge PD 5.3-5.6

Date: 7/1/2013

Trip Report:
The striking South rib of Mt Tupper rises over 800m from it’s base in the South Rib couloir to it’s intersection with the West ridge near the summit. Since the weather on Canada Day (July 1) was perfect, Joey Vosburgh and I decided a nice long day in the hills would be appropriate.

Despite the fact that the beautiful stepped buttress continues from the large traversing ledge below the summit pyramid, the original South Rib route (Jones/Spellman ’72) escapes Westward and gains the West Ridge at a point just below the Hermit Gendarme.

Joey V following the first technical pitch, a nice 5.8 double crack.


Joey leading the second “5.8” pitch was a stout 5.9 layback corner.


The South Rib above the first two more technical pitches. From here the route should follow the path of least resistance. Many parties (us included) were suckered into much harder climbing nearer to the ridge crest.


Nice looking stone on the rib between the South Rib (D 5.8) and the South Buttress (TD 5.10+). According to the 2012 Rogers Pass Alpine Guide by David P. Jones, this wishbone feature that feeds into the South Buttress has yet to be climbed.


We had high hopes to climb the magnificent looking rock on the upper summit pyramid, but decided not to strike out into unknown (and reportedly super tough) upper rib.

The 1965 Tupper Corner (Becky/Fuller) tackles a steep corner right of center at a terrifying 5.9 A3.

After a nice extended brake marveling at the upper pitches, we travelled down and generally west before climbing back up to the Hermit gendarme.


The Hermit Gendarme

Nice airy climbing on the West ridge.

Final stretch to the summit, and finally a long descent down to Rogers Pass via Hermit Meadows.

Nice views of Mt Tupper from the trail down to the highway.

All in all a nice long day in the hills with plenty of fantastic views to keep us going.

Approach Notes:
Park just West of the first snowshed East of Rogers Pass. Ascend the South Rib couloir by first following a short doubletrack road then the main drainage/couloir climbers right of the South Rib for roughly 700m before gaining the South Rib.